The cowboy boot began life as a luxurious item that was only available as a custom-made item of footwear, but it was during the 1880's when their popularity grew that a mail-order company began to ship them out. Demand for cowboy boots continued to increase into the 1900's as they became a feature of silent films and the increasing railways meant that more people could get hold of these western wonders.

Now, down to the business of just how cowboy boots are made. Generally, they are made using welted or cemented construction, both of which providing you with those all-important hard-wearing properties that are favoured in cowboy boots. A cemented construction is one in which the sole is glued to the upper of the shoe, whilst a welted construction sees the sole of the shoe stitched to the upper.

As with most footwear construction, there are very specialised jobs along with the way, with different specialists and machines being in control of the different parts. The cowboy boots will begin life in the cutting room where the animal skins that are to be used as the upper of the boots are cut to size before being treated and split (if required).

Three key parts are involved in the main leather part of the boot; these are the counter, vamp and uppers. The uppers cover the back and front of the boot, joined together down the side in most cases; the vamp covers the front of the boot and the counter the back of the boot, normally in the heel area. The lining of the boot will also be cut and attached at this point.

To give the boot it's distinguished western look, the boot may be sent into a special stitching department where it can be decorated in the traditional stitches and patterns. Or, if the boot is to have any colours on it's uppers, the leathers may be dyed at this stage too.

The boot is then constructed in two halves, with the front upper being attached to the vamp (that covers the front of the foot) and the back upper attached to the counter (that covers the heel of the foot). If there are any leftover bits of leather, these will be removed before a strip of leather is attached to the counter (the welt) which will be used later on to attach the sole of the boot to the uppers.

The back and front of the boot are then joined together by either glue or stitches, with them being sewn together on the inside initially before the boot is turned the right way round and the leather upper is stitched together.

The bottom of the boot is formed by first attaching the insole (the part that covers the bottom of the boot where the foot will go) to the vamp and counter. A last will be used during this stage; this is a model foot that will ensure that the boot is being made to the correct size, with different lasts being made for each style and size of boot that is being manufactured. To ensure that the correct fit is provided, the insole will be tacked to the last before the counter and vamp are nailed to the last, over the insole. To add durability and reinforcement to the boot's toe a stiff piece of leather is added to the front of the vamp.

The welt that we saw earlier will be used to bind all of the elements together as it is sewn to the vamp and insole, thus allowing the nails to be removed. The last will still remain in place at this point to continue to ensure that the right fit is being achieved. A metal shank will also be added into the insole of the boot, attached using a leather piece; this will reinforce the high arch that is found within cowboy boots.

The sole will then be shaped to the same shape of the insole, before it is attached to the welt with stitches. The heel will then be attached to the boot using nails before both the heel and sole will be sanded to shape them correctly.

The high-quality finish will then be ensured during the last stages as any excess seams and threads are cut, any additional dyes added and the boots are polished and waxed. Subject to quality control, these boots are then ready to be shipped out.

*Please note: this construction is for a traditional cowboy boot and may differ for different styles/manufacturers of cowboy boots.